Tokay Geckos are the second largest type of geckos. They are very interesting pets and are popular for their bright colours with the vivid spots.
If you are someone with a Tokay Gecko or want to know more about these creatures, then keep reading.
Let us know more about Tokay Geckos.
Tokay geckos are also known as Gekko Gecko, belonging to the genus Gecko and the family Gekkonidae. Mostly found in south east Asia.
They have a colourful skin, a bluish grey colour with vibrant reddish orange spots all over. Usually male geckos are brighter in colour than females.
They live on trees and often make a typical croaking sound To-kay! and hence the name Tokay Gecko.
It is believed that they bring good luck and prosperity. But despite this, they possess medicinal properties hence are always targeted. The geckos are killed and dried to prepare powder or a tonic out of them which is believed to cure asthma,cancer, diabetes etc.
If you are planning to have a Tokay Gecko as your pet and want to buy one make sure that you keep certain things in your mind.
1.A big No to wild caught Gecko as they are very aggressive.
2.It’s better to procure from a breeder
3.Choose a healthy Gecko which is active, well behaved, and with a round tail and clear skin without any wounds or lesions.
Always make sure that your pet gecko has a separate housing and not to be placed in your bedroom.
A tank large as 20 gallons would be sufficient for a single Tokay Gecko as they are quite large. You may need a larger tank if you wish to place multiple geckos.
It would be great if you create a branch kind of environment in their housing as they love climbing and it helps to keep them involved.
Tokay Geckos prefer temperatures of 27 to 32 degrees Celsius in the day and 21 to 27 degrees Celsius at night.
Heating pads can be used to maintain the temperature that your pet prefers.
A hygrometer can be used to maintain the humidity.
Generally the Tokay Geckos prefer humidity of around 70%. Make sure that the humidity doesn’t fall below 60%.
A substrate can be placed at the bottom of the tank to maintain the humidity.
A natural coco based substrate would be great as they are 100% natural, biodegradable, eco friendly and smooth. EcoBed Reptile Bedding is the best bedding that you can use to keep your pet healthy.
As the Tokay Geckos are more active during the night time, a red bulb can be installed.
They mainly feed on insects like grasshoppers, moths etc.
Food with high Calcium : Phosphorous ratio and high protein is great. Avoid high fat food. Pink mice and a few other insects can also be included in the diet.
Make sure to place a vessel filled with water near the tank for the hydration.
It is always better to consult a veterinarian every 3 to 4 months in order to maintain the healthy and happy life of your pet.
Tokay Geckos are susceptible to parasitic infections.
Handle them with care and not to be over cuddled as they might get furious.
Reptiles are excellent pets, but a precautious measure has to be taken for the safety concerns of kids.
Good habits are best acquired at an early age, as is usually the case. Teach your children to treat animals with respect from the start. They will receive years of enjoyment from their reptile pals after they comprehend basic reptile etiquette.
Reptiles are delicate creatures that can easily become frightened if not handled appropriately. Kids, in particular, might inadvertently rough-handle and irritate a reptile pet, thus additional caution should be exercised anytime children handle these kind of animals.
Basically, you should keep deadly reptiles away from kids and keep them locked up. Teach correct handling techniques. Respect for reptiles must be taught to children. Even while part of this behaviour may be appropriate among cats and dogs, they cannot shake, tug, or crush the animal. In self-defense, reptiles may lash out. Choose the appropriate reptile. Humans, especially youngsters, are not fond of handling lizards. On the other hand, certain snake species are more tolerant to youngsters. Geckos are among the most kid-friendly creatures. Chameleons and frogs, in particular, are unsuitable for handling. Claws should be trimmed. Although reptiles are less susceptible to having their claws clipped than cats or dogs, it is possible to keep your youngster from being scratched if you do so. Claws of iguanas, in particular, should be cut on a regular basis.
Health Risks To Your Child
Salmonella and botulism are two diseases and illnesses that reptiles may transfer on to your child. These are the most serious dangers. Salmonella is a bacterial infection. Diarrhoea, vomiting, headaches, fever and stomach cramps are all symptoms of the sickness. It can also cause dehydration and blood infections. Salmonella is a threat to reptiles of all kinds. Handwashing helps to lessen the danger.
Botulism is a dangerous and potentially fatal illness. Clostridium is the germ that causes it. It causes death and paralysis. Clostridium is a common bacteria found in reptiles. Botulism is especially dangerous to babies and infants under the age of one. Botulism is caused by bacteria that are widespread in aquatic reptiles. Reptiles that dwell in water, such as turtles, are examples of aquatic responses.
Keeping Clean Around Reptiles Can Help To Reduce Health Risk
You should presume that at least one dangerous germ has infected your reptile. After coming into touch with reptiles, wash your hands and your child’s hands. After handling your reptile or anything it has touched, avoid touching your mouth. Wait till you’ve thoroughly washed your hands. Teach your youngster to follow in your footsteps. Reptiles should not be allowed in any place where food is produced or consumed. Wash the surfaces wherein the reptile has come in contact, with hot water. Your reptile should only be washed in its own basin. Never ever waste water and faeces should be flushed down the toilet or poured down the drain. When cleaning tanks, cages, and equipment, always use disposable gloves and wash your hands afterward. Clean any clothing that has come into touch with your reptile in a hot wash.
Reasons why kids should have pets
Pets Teach Empathy To Kids
Young children are frequently self-centered. The good news is that knowing how to properly care for a pet can aid in the development of empathy in youngsters. Children will discover how their pets react to changes in their habitat and room environment as they care for them. Indeed, you might be amazed at how fast youngsters learn up on their new pet’s likes and dislikes. Having a pet allows youngsters to view things through the eyes of a pet, which is a precursor to seeing things through the eyes of people.
Pets Teach Responsibility To Children
Taking care of an animal creates responsible instincts in your children. Even if your child is extremely small, he or she will be able to fill a dish with food or water. As your child becomes increasingly capable of caring for their pet, you may gradually give them greater responsibility.
Pets Build Confidence Into Children
Caring for a pet may be your child’s first “job.” Your youngster will realise how capable they are with responsibility if they complete their task effectively. This will boost their confidence and, hopefully, provide them with additional opportunities to demonstrate their responsibilities.
Introducing children to a variety of animals at a young age and educating them about them helps to teach compassion and respect for every living creatures, as well as refute and address unreasonable concerns. Only animals with an anxious or violent disposition are not allowed. That would apply to all species, not only reptiles and invertebrates.
A suitable cage, as well as sources of light, heat, and water, are required for reptiles. Before bringing your pet home, make sure the habitat is entirely ready and safe. Lizards require housing that is both emotionally and physically comfortable. Emotional comfort refers to the animal’s sense of security. Physical comfort implies that the temperature and, to a lesser extent, humidity of your lizard’s cage remain in the same range as when it was born.
It’s much easier to provide such features if you know what kind of lizard you have. Lizards are divided into three groups: those that are large enough to be unaffected by little objects, and those that escape danger.
Lizards that are too huge to be maintained by a hobbyist, let alone legally protected, are too enormous to be kept by a hobbyist. Running lizards may make advantage of large-scale housing, which allows them to roam and establish territories. Most enthusiasts, however, are unable to provide room-sized enclosures for a trio of 10-inch-long lizards.
Different enclosures are appropriate for different sorts of settings, whether they are separate or used together:
Aquariums for aquatic reptiles are comparable to aquatic terrariums. A submersible heater, a filter for continuous, easy cleaning, a vented or wire screen on top with a lid or covering for easy ventilation and access; gravel spread on the bottom, a basking light that the reptile cannot reach. A basking area, such as a rock or floating surface; and a comfortable background are all important elements for an aquatic terrarium. Turtles, frogs, newts, water snakes, and salamanders thrive in this type of enclosure.
Water and land regions are combined in semi-aquatic terrariums. You may use a piece of glass attached with sealed silicon to divide the two regions, or a detachable container for the water. For proper filtration, drainage, and utilisation, the land area should be built in layers. For these substrates, you can use tiny pebbles, moss, bark, or potting soil. A coating of charcoal at the bottom of the substrates can help keep them fresher. Driftwood, moss, pebbles, or plants can be used to provide interest and movement to the terrarium. Choose plants that are appropriate for your pet’s species and size. You may also need to establish a basking area and a thermal gradient in the terrarium, depending on the species. Salamanders, newts, frogs, certain lizards, and turtles thrive in semi-aquatic terrariums.
Woodland terrariums are comparable to semi-aquatic terrariums, except they have a lot less water area. For the water element, just use a bowl. The same substrates can be used again and again. For arboreal creatures, include additional branches, while for terrestrial species, use more pebbles. A heating element and/or full spectrum lighting element may be required, depending on the species. Within this form of enclosure, a temperature gradient is usually required. Frogs, salamanders, snakes, and lizards such as geckos, anoles, and skinks live in forest habitats, as do a variety of other reptiles.
Desert terrariums are for reptiles that need to be in a dry, arid environment. Reptile bark, terrarium carpet, or sand can be used as substrates. Cactus or succulents, for example, require little water and are low-humidity plants. You’ll need to incorporate a temperature gradient within the enclosure, as well as a heating element and full spectrum illumination. Chuckwallas, desert iguanas, leopard geckos, and a variety of other lizards are housed in these cages.
A variety of climbing/clambering surfaces not only provides areas for your lizard to explore and hide, but also enhances the appearance of the cage. Because these things must be anchored in the substrate, a cage with just a paper towel or newspaper substrate can only include a water dish and a couple of hide boxes for decoration. Cages with a gravel or mulch bottom provide you a lot more creative freedom when it comes to decorating.
You should limit the cage furnishings for desert lizards to cholla cactus skeletons and rocks. Living plants, especially xeric-adapted ones, have a tendency to add moisture to an already confined habitat. Cactus that are still in their pots can be added by die-hards.
Pothos and dwarf sansevieria, as well as climbing limbs and vertical cork bark slabs, can be added to woodland/jungle species like geckos and iguanas. Branches may be added, but they must be at least 1.5 times the lizard’s diameter to be securely held, and they must be wedged into position so they don’t slip.
If you detect excrement or the tank smells musty, it’s time to clean it.
If the substrate is paper, simply peel it off and spray it with cage cleaning. A cleanser made of one-third alcohol, two-thirds water, and a drop or two of dishwashing detergent works well. Replace the paper substrate and wipe the cage dry with paper towels.
You may simply pick up the dried faeces with a paper towel if you use a gravel or mulch base. Every month or so, replace the substrate, spraying and cleaning the empty cage with the cage cleaner.
Lizards who are protective of their territory are known as caring lizards. You probably won’t be able to offer adequate room for each lizard’s own area now that you’ve pulled your lizard out of the wild. However, you may compensate for the spatial constraints – and provide a hiding spot for a species that hides to avoid danger – by erecting visual barriers.This may be done using genuine or imitation vining plants, small parts of limbs, bits of bark, or conceal boxes. Even if your lizard can’t get away from a possible adversary, whether it’s you or another lizard, the “enemy” won’t be visible. Hide boxes that have been manufactured commercially are easily accessible. The majority of them are variants on a black plastic box with a hole at the front. Ideally, you should offer numerous hide boxes, at least one for each animal, and put them at the cage’s cold and warm ends.
Your lizard need water on a regular basis. A small dish of water or a dish with a bubbler can be used passively to offer this. Bubbler bowls are for lizards who like to drink moving water rather than static water. You may also spray the enclosure’s plants and walls every day or every other day. For arboreal lizards that do not descend to ground level and desert lizards that sip dew drops, misting is utilised. One of the rock or corkbark pieces in the cage, as well as one or two of the tank’s walls, should be misted. Though the lizard rushes up to the misted area and lapping one location after another as if it’s thirsty, mist again after the droplets have vanished. You want your lizard to desire to drink, but not to get dehydrated.
A drip bottle, a water-filled container with a tiny hole in the bottom that rests on top of the cage, is used by some enthusiasts.
Water droplets seep out of the orifice and splash down. Most cages can fit into a clean yoghurt cup. A plant, a water dish, a wood, or a rock can all be placed in the container. Every day, wash and rinse the container well.
To serve as the tank’s flooring, you’ll need to offer a substrate. Substrates come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Paper towels or newspaper, on the one hand, are a simple and inexpensive option. Paper towels are a better choice for little lizards. These lizards are too light to rumple the absorbent towels, which may be readily replaced when they become wet or filthy.
For tiny to bigger lizards, newspapers could work. Although newspaper is absorbent to some extent and tends to lie flat, your lizard will have no walking or running traction due to its slippery surface. Gravel works nicely and can be cleaned easily by putting it in a bucket and hose-washing it.
Mulch that isn’t fragrant is a suitable choice for a substrate. It’s relatively absorbent, has a burrowing surface for tiny lizards to feel secure, has decent traction, and offers the cage a natural appearance. Substrates created from crushed walnut/pecan shells or compressed coconut fibre are similar to mulch but more costly. We recommend EcoBed Reptile Bedding. This is an 100% eco-friendly exotic bedding type provided for your pet reptile’s comfort, made out of refined coconut husk chips.
Here, newspaper is used as a compacted/pelleted product that delivers all of the benefits of mulch and other loose substrates. However, one word of caution: lightweight pelted or granular substrates can be readily consumed with meals. If you’re going to utilise these substrates, place a large flat rock or a small tray on top of them to act as a feeding platform.
Cage carpets, for example, are one-piece substrates that look attractive, give grip, and are often easy to clean. Food that has spilled is readily cleaned up. On the negative side, the carpets are less absorbent than mulch or other loose substrates, and waste is visible.
It will take time, effort, and money to create the ideal home for your reptile, but it will be well worth it when you see your reptile thrive.
The basilisk is a lizard native to tropical Central America that is long and thin. It’s usually green or green/blue in colour, with dark stripes running down the back of the tail and across the top of the abdomen. Males of the species are larger and have huge plumes on their heads, along their spines, and down their tails.
The basilisk will spend the most of its time in or among trees that are located over or near sources of water. When threatened, it may rear up on two legs and sprint exceedingly fast by utilising its tail to keep itself stable. To evade predators, the basilisk can even dive into water. Among the most intriguing features of this lizard is that it has hydrophobic scales on the underside of its feet, allowing it to run over water for brief periods of time. The lizard earned the moniker “Jesus Christ” as a result of this.
Appearance and Behaviour
Basilisks have a dazzling electric green body with light-blue, white, or grey markings as well as darker stripes. The basilisk’s belly is generally a lighter green than the rest of its body, creating a striking contrast.
Their stability is aided by their broad extremities. They are usually brownish or green, but they can also be vivid green, olive-brown, or tan. Their hybrid lines are duller, and their jaws and parallel strips are cream to yellowish. Newborn pigmentation is comparable to that of adults, except it is often more defined, and they have three lengthwise borders on the neck. The eyes of all generation species are rusty to tan in colour. While climbing, they have extended fingers with sharp studs. Males have larger combs than females, which are supported by growing sensory backbones that include a circular or spiky cranial, rear, and posterior comb.
The average length of a fully grown basilisk is between 24 and 36 inches. A female, which is always somewhat smaller than a male, can reach a height of 18-24′′. The tail is responsible for the majority of the length. The average lifespan of a basilisk is eight to 10 years.
What basking temperatures do basilisks need?
A basking area temperature of 90-95°F and a cool side temperature of 75-80°F are required for basilisks. The temperature in the enclosure should be kept between 80 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Digital probe thermometers should be used to measure temperatures, with probes positioned on the basking spot and the floor on the cool side.
A thick, solid wood branch positioned towards the top should serve as the basking surface. Provide heat by placing a cluster of halogen heat lights on one side of the enclosure to resemble the sun. You’ll need enough lamps to heat an area the size of the lizard’s body evenly. Heat mats, red bulbs, and blue bulbs are ineffective and should be avoided.
The temperature should not drop below 75°F at night. To maintain the minimum air temperature, a lightless heat source, such as a radiant heat panel, can be utilized.
What humidity levels do basilisks need?
Basilisks need a humidity level of 50 to 80 percent. This can be maintained by spraying the vivarium with warm water on a daily basis. If your budget allows, you can purchase a mister or fogger to perform the work for you.
What do Basilisks eat?
Basilisks are omnivorous, which means they need to eat both animal and plant-based diets to receive enough nutrients. They are known to eat tiny creatures like lizards, snakes, fish, rodents, birds, and frogs, as well as fruit and certain fresh greens, despite their preference for insects. Depending on their age, they require different amounts of food:
Hatchlings ( < 3 months old): Insects daily
Juveniles ( < 16” long): Insects and salad every other day
Subadults and adults ( > 16” long): Insects every 3-5 days, salad daily
Provide as much food variety as possible for a healthy, happy, colourful basilisk!
Crickets, discoid roaches, dubia roaches, earthworms, grasshoppers, hornworms, silkworms, mealworms, superworms, snails (captive-bred exclusively), pinkie/fuzzy mice, entire fish, chicks, feeder anoles are all good protein sources for basilisks.
Collard greens, cactus pads, spring mix, arugula, kale, alfalfa, bok choy, carrot greens, spinach, dandelion greens/flowers, hibiscus greens/flowers are also good selections for basilisks.
Fruit should only be consumed as a treat due to its high sugar content. Berries, mango, cantaloupe, and papaya are among the fruits available.
Do basilisks like to be handled?
These lizards are often hesitant to be handled. This is especially true for people who have been caught in the wild. When confronted, they frequently snap or flee and begin leaping from the room’s surfaces, which can indicate wounds and nervousness. These lizards are a secondary alternative if you’re looking for a peaceful and well-managed reptile.
If you intend to touch your Basilisk, you can try to gradually build a connection with the creature. Test feeding a few meals with a pair of tweezers; once they start eating from the tongs, see if they will eat from your palm.
You can begin slowly pulling them up without restricting them once they associate you as the pleasant owner who supplies them; make this close to the area so they don’t damage themselves if they fall off. After nearly a year of building confidence, you’ll notice a major change in their personalities.
To keep your surroundings healthy, do a regular spot clean to catch any excrement or uneaten food. A thorough cleaning should be performed once a month. This entails taking down all decorations as well as the substrate. Clean with a reptile-safe disinfectant and a paper towel. In the same way, you can clean your decorations. Before putting them back in the enclosure, make sure they’re completely dry.
Cleaning should be done during the day so that your lizard can return to the vivarium for at least an hour before the temperature drops for the night.
How much space do green basilisks need?
Basilisks are native to a tropical climate, thus they suffer in the UK’s colder climate and require heating and illumination to survive. We recommend keeping a basilisk in a hardwood vivarium to help maintain temperatures stable and shield against the cold. For an adult, we recommend an enclosure that is as near to 4 x 2 x 3ft as possible due to the temperature gradient required for this species.
When choosing a vivarium, look for one with plenty of huge vents and glass sliding front doors. All of this ventilation should prevent heat from escaping from one side of the enclosure to the other while maintaining a steady temperature in the basking region.
In wide open spaces, young basilisks may feel vulnerable and terrified, so make sure there are plenty of decorations. As the basilisk grows in size and becomes accustomed to its surroundings, these can be removed, giving it more room to roam around and bask within the enclosure.
What substrate is good for basilisks?
The substrate should be soil, soil mixtures, leaf litter, or bark wood chips to keep the environment at the proper humidity level. If you want to make a bio-active enclosure, use a nutrient-dense soil mix and add a drainage layer beneath your substrate. For this lizard, coconut husk is an excellent choice. Calcium sand can also be used.
Coconut husks or chips are one of the safest and most effective reptile bedding solutions. It is one to know because it is soft, pleasant, absorbent, and wonderfully aerated. Its absorbency keeps the odour intact, holds moisture for longer, and keeps the room at a comfortable temperature. You can make use of it according to your needs. Coconut bedding is simple to clean and store, as well as being non-allergenic, biodegradable, reusable, and recyclable.
Calcium sand is one of the most attractive surfaces for lizards. Pool sand is a wonderful choice because it is usually cleaner than playground sand. These sands give the terrarium a truly desert feel, and they’re usually easy to keep clean. This sand can be found in a variety of colours. They’re formed of calcium and have a look and feel that’s extremely close to genuine sand. This material encourages basilisk natural digging inclinations while also retaining heat within the habitat.
Soil Mixture is a soil-like substrate manufactured from a unique combination of peat moss, soil, sand, and carbon that provides the ideal environment for live-planted realistic or bioactive tropical terrariums. It encourages natural activities like burrowing and egg-laying since it mimics the soil found in tropical reptiles’ natural habitats. It’s also possible to add more sand to make it ideal for desert setups!
Basilisk potential health issue
Even if you’re providing care for your lizard, you should always be on the lookout for disease.
Internal parasites like roundworm and hookworm can be very harmful to reptiles. Contact with another diseased reptile, contaminated objects, or infected food can cause a captive lizard to become parasitized. Lack of appetite and weight loss, regurgitation of meals, changes in behaviour, and loose stool or diarrhoea are all signs of a parasite infection. Make sure the vivarium is clean on a regular basis to avoid parasitic infestation.
Metabolic Bone Disease-
Lack of UVB lighting is a common reason. Reptiles are unable to convert calcium without vitamin D3, and they are unable to generate vitamin D3 without adequate UVB illumination. A UVB bulb that covers half to two-thirds of the vivarium will suffice.
Vitamin A deficiency-
Vitamin A is obtained from a number of plants in the wild, but it is more difficult to obtain in captivity. Vitamin A is essential for preserving strong vision. Vitamin A is found in most reptile supplement powders and can also be purchased separately.
Rostral (nose) Injuries-
The behaviour of nose banging is common in agitated lizards. They dash about the vivarium, slamming their noses against the walls. Open wounds are common and can become infected quickly.
Basilisks can make excellent pets after you are familiar with their basic maintenance and temperament. They may not be the most cuddly of pets, but they are fascinating to watch and have a lengthy lifespan.
Reptiles are becoming increasingly popular as family pets, and for worthwhile purposes. It’s exciting to observe and engage with these sophisticated creatures. If you’re looking to acquire a reptile, there are many to choose from lizards. In no particular order, here are the top ten most popular lizards kept as pets.
The Bearded Dragon is a popular, outgoing, and low-maintenance reptile. They are among the greatest reptile pets available. Beardies are Australian natives who are recognised for their unique communication style. They have skin folds under their chin that protrude into a “beard.”
Bearded Dragons are omnivorous, meaning they eat a variety of fruits and insects during the day. They should eat a couple of times a week and take a calcium supplement. These dragons are the most friendly reptiles you’ll ever meet. They prefer to engage with their owners most of the time. According to several owners, each dragon has its own distinct personality.
The Bearded Dragon is a wonderful starter lizard because of its general simplicity of care and pleasant nature. They grow to be 1-2 feet long and survive for 10-15 years.
Leopard geckos are a popular pet and are well-known for being a good choice for newcomers to herpetology. They are covered in a pattern of dark brown spots, like to the animal for which they are called. They are totally insectivorous and must be supplemented with calcium. They are nocturnal as well.
Leopard geckos are typically calm, do not bite, and are easy to care for, making them ideal for beginners. They like to talk, especially when they’re hungry, so if you don’t want a noisy pet, they might not be the best choice. Fortunately, unlike other geckos, this species lacks sticky toes and does not climb, so they won’t require a tall aquarium. They have a 15-year lifespan.
These Australian indigenous are omnivores who consume primarily fruits with a small amount of meat. Although they require a fruit and vegetable diet, meat, such as large worms or mice, should also be supplied. They are a little heavier than the reptiles previously mentioned, although they do not grow particularly long for their size about 20 inches.
Skinks with blue tongues are typically gentle, quiet, and easy to tame. They have a powerful bite if they feel threatened, so while it is safe for youngsters to touch them, they should always be supervised. This skink has a 20-year lifespan. Overall, they are ideal starting reptiles due to their simplicity of care and docility.
The beautiful Monitor Lizard makes an excellent pet. The Savannah Monitor, Acklin’s Monitor, and White Throated Monitor, which are smaller variants of the Monitor Lizard, are the most frequent. This pet reptile should not be obtained from the wild once again.
The carnivorous Monitor Lizard may be fed rats and mice twice a week. This clever pet reptile should be maintained in a big, safe enclosure to prevent it from escaping. The Komodo Dragon, which resembles a tiny dinosaur at first glance and is not suggested as a pet, is the most well-known of the Monitor Lizards.
African Fat-Tailed Geckos are closely related to Leopard Geckos and require comparable care. These lizards are African natives, as their name implies, and their tails are nearly as thick as their bodies.
Beginners will have no trouble caring for them. Their husbandry and feeding requirements are quite simple. They are typically gentle and pleasant. They have a lifespan of 10 to 25 years.
A Chameleon should be purchased from a captive bred pet store or breeder, just like any other pet reptile. A Chameleon is a difficult reptile to keep as a pet since it is often stressed and requires a lot of attention in terms of habitat, health, and food. The Chameleon, unlike other pet lizards, dislikes being touched.
With its ability to change colours, rolling eyes, and lengthy tongue, the Chameleon makes for a fascinating and fantastic companion. The Veiled, Jackson’s, and Panther Chameleons are the most common pet Chameleons. Chameleons require big, open enclosures and feed on live insects such as crickets and flies.
The Day Gecko is native to Madagascar, but it has lately been brought to Hawaii and other Pacific Islands. They get their name from the gold flecks that emerge on their dorsal side. They are mostly green in colour.
They’re little lizards, approximately 5 to 6 inches long, but they need a 20-gallon tank with plenty of logs and branches to hide in. This will help them cope with their shyness. These branches will also allow them to indulge in their climbing passion. Some novice reptile keepers are hesitant to accept this species since they are highly stressed and their skin rips readily. These lizards are best kept as showpieces with little handling.
They’re ideal for novices who want to learn about lizard care without having to engage with them too much. Day geckos have a lifespan of around ten years.
Because of their attractive look and herbivorous habit, iguanas are a popular beginning Lizard. They consume leaves, fruits, and flowers, so they’re ideal for first-time reptile owners who don’t want to give live food. They are endemic to Central and South America and may reach a height of 5 to 6 feet. They will require a huge cage with a pool of water large enough for them to soak in as they get larger.
To tame your Iguana, begin handling them as often as gently as possible after they appear more at ease. They also have strong claws, so keep an eye on where they put their feet. Iguanas have a lifespan of 10 to 15 years.
They’re ideal for novices who have lots of room, patience, and devotion.
The Basilisk is noted for being a water-running lizard, gaining the moniker “Jesus Christ Lizard.”
Typically found in Central America’s tropical jungles. They consume insects, mice, and the occasional fruit as part of their omnivorous diet. Because they are small, these lizards are suitable for beginners. They may grow up to 3 feet long and aren’t very stocky or heavy for their size.
They require a huge cage with higher-than-normal temperatures and humidity. They don’t usually take to handling well, but they’re an interesting pet lizard to observe from a distance. Beginners who are willing to accept their particular husbandry requirements and lack of human interaction should keep this breed. They have an average lifespan of 8 to 12 years.
Which Lizard is best for you?
Many of the lizards on this list are wonderful for some people, but not for others. Make sure the species you pick is appropriate for your lifestyle, husbandry, and handling ability.
Though each of the lizards on this list would make an excellent first pet, they all require special care.
Because of their amiable demeanour and enjoyment of handling, bearded dragons are one of the finest choices for first-time reptile owners.
Choose your reptile carefully, conduct your homework, and bear in mind their needs.
Reptiles make unusual and intriguing pets, regardless of their species. Most reptile pets will live a long time and give years of companionship and amusement provided their unique needs are addressed.
The box turtle has a tiny head and a hooked upper jaw, making it an intriguing pet with a distinct personality. Depending on the species or subspecies, their colour varies. Some have a lemon-yellow or olive-yellow head, and their shells range in colour from brown to olive-brown to black. Some have a large dark patch on their underside as well as black triangular markings with a brown or olive triangle behind the eye.
Their spines may be red or light brown in colour, or they may have three longitudinal stripes. By the time they reach the age of 15, box turtles should have reached the end of their growth cycle. Adults are around five inches tall and weigh 400 grammes on average. Box turtles live for 30 to 50 years on average, but some have lived up to 100 years!
Box turtles are not intended as pets for young children or inexperienced pet owners. This is owing to their extensive care requirements and vulnerability to stress, both of which can negatively impact a turtle’s health. You can expect to spend at least a week cleaning and maintaining their enclosure, as well as feeding them every day or two.
Box turtles prefer to remain in a consistent environment and avoid being touched by humans. They don’t usually bite, however nervousness caused by overhandling can cause them to nip someone. Furthermore, they can contain salmonella, so wash your hands carefully after handling your turtle or anything in its habitat. Most box turtles will remember their keepers once they’ve become accustomed to their surroundings, even following a person’s motions from inside their cage or asking for food.
Daytime temperatures for common box turtles should be at 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit, with a basking area around 85 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. The temperature might dip between 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit at night. To assist manage the temperature, use a basking lamp, ceramic heat emitters, or other heat sources.
For box turtles to digest the calcium in their meals, UVB illumination is required. They may get metabolic bone disease and possibly die if they don’t get it. 2 Box turtles require around 12 hours of UVB illumination each day, which may be obtained from natural sunshine or a UVB lamp. To simulate a natural day-night cycle indoors, turn off the lamp at night.
A humidity level of approximately 60% is ideal for box turtles. This may be achieved by misting on a regular basis and utilising a substrate that maintains moisture.
A wooden vivarium is required for a typical box turtle’s enclosure. This is because wood is a great heat insulator, thus a wooden vivarium will make it simpler to maintain the critical habitat temperatures. The wooden vivarium should be well ventilated to allow for enough air flow in and out of the enclosure, as well as sealed to keep moisture and humidity out.
For a juvenile, the vivarium should be at least 860mm (34″) long, and for an adult, 1150mm (46″) long. The cage must be heated at one end and cold at the other, with enough space between them for the temperature to decrease.
Vegetation, turtle food, live feeder insects, and flesh make up a box turtle’s diet. Dropping crickets or locusts into the pool for the live food component because they are both healthy and simple to digest. Snails and worms are common additions to the meat component of the diet.
Dandelion, clover, honeysuckle, leafy salads, watercress, curly kale, brussel tops, spring greens, coriander, parsley, rocket, carrot, parsnip, courgette, and bell peppers are all suitable for the vegetation component of the diet. Leafy greens should make up the majority of the vegetation. Supplements can be dusted on the salad, but we wouldn’t dust the turtle food, meat, or live food since we don’t want to contaminate the turtle’s pool water.
It is critical for both you and your turtle to maintain excellent cleanliness. So, before you start touching anything, wash your hands.
Before you decide to handle them, make sure they aren’t resting or feeding, and consider whether or not they are in the mating season.
Pick up your turtle with both hands from both sides of its shell.
Don’t squeeze your turtle, but make sure it doesn’t squirm out of your hands while it’s flying.
Picking up your turtle by the limbs or turning it fast is not a good idea.
Even though turtles are gentle, they do best when handled just for examinations and cleaning.
The substance that lines the bottom of your box turtle’s habitat is called substrate. It aids in humidity retention and satisfies the turtle’s need to burrow. Furthermore, it can give the enclosure a more natural appearance and feel. As a result, try to choose a substrate that closely resembles the turtle’s native habitat. Chemical-free topsoil, leaves, and moss are popular among gardeners. Wood chips help your turtle to burrow, so make sure you layer it at least 4 inches deep. It is not recommended to utilise soil or gravel since they might induce intestinal obstruction if consumed.The best choice of substrate is Coconut Husk. We recommend EcoBed Reptile Bedding. This is an 100% eco-friendly exotic bedding type provided for your pet reptile’s comfort, made out of refined coconut husk chips.
One of the safest and most effective reptile bedding options is coconut husks or chips. It’s a must-have because it’s soft, comfortable, absorbent, and aerated to perfection. Its absorbency keeps odours at bay, holds moisture for longer, and maintains a suitable temperature in the room. You can use it according to your requirements. Coconut bedding is non-allergenic, biodegradable, reusable, and recyclable, as well as being easy to clean and store.
Very natural look
Self-cleaning and easy cleanup of droppings
Affordable and good value
May attract mites and bugs over time
Wood Chips or Mulch
Wood chips or wood mulch is a common bedding item among turtle keepers. It’s generally produced from fir bark or cypress, but pine and cedar generate poisonous oils and resin, so avoid them. Because wood chips and mulch are pretty excellent at absorbing water, they’re wonderful for increasing the humidity of an enclosure, but they don’t drain effectively.
Excellent for Humidity
Can be Cleaned and Reused
Can Carry Mold Spores
Sharp Pieces can Pierce the Intestinal Walls
Large Pieces can Cause Impaction
Can’t be Burrowed Into
One can’t go wrong with dirt if you’re searching for a natural sleeping material. Tortoises in the wild already walk on it and dig through it, so they’re as natural as it gets. The best aspect is that it is really inexpensive. Tortoises may also readily burrow through this material without it crumbling too soon. If you want to place plants in your enclosure, soil is the finest substance for them to grow in.
Cheap and Natural
Great Moisture Retention
Good Structural Integrity
Can Be Mixed with Other Bedding Materials
Will Need to be Sterilized
Very Dusty when Dry
Might Contain Unwanted Critters or Materials
Strong Musty Smell
Gravel is one of the simplest and most cheap turtle tank substrate alternatives. It comes in a variety of hues. It’s simple to use, turtle-safe, and won’t alter the pH or chemistry of your tank’s water.
Colored natural materials with a non-toxic finishing
Turtles can tolerate a fine texture.
The pH or chemistry of tank water will not be affected.
Rough edges may be seen on certain stones.
Blue substrates may not appear as natural as other colours.
Box turtles have extremely particular needs that necessitate a rigorous husbandry routine. After a few weeks, though, this maintenance becomes very easy for first-time owners. Many turtle owners establish a lifelong relationship with their pets since they are docile and cheap.
New to reptile care! need help choosing your first lizard! Each lizard is unique in itself and in most cases has specific husbandry requirements. Some lizards are social and enjoyable, while others are shy and tense in human presence. Lizards will live a longer time, it is very important to choose a lizard that suits your lifestyle and husbandry capabilities.
Facts about lizards
Lizards are popular pets. They take up very little space and are easy to take care of. The natural habitat of lizards extends from tropical rainforests and jungles to arid and arid regions of the world. Many factors affect the health of lizards, such as heat, light, stress, nutrition and moisture. Therefore, it is very important to understand where and how lizards exist in nature. Please consult your pet dealer for the specific environmental requirements of your lizard.
Which lizards are good pets?
Many of the lizards on our list are good choices for most people, but not for all. When choosing a lizard, be sure to choose a species that suits your lifestyle, husbandry and handling skills.
Crested- Leopard Geckos and Gargoyles are perfect for those who don’t want to set-up aquarium like structures and want a basic environment.
Bearded Dragon, Leopard Gecko, Crested Gecko, and Blue Tongue Skink are great choices for lovers who wish to tame their pets.
If you are looking for small lizards, Gold-Dust Day Gecko, Green Anole, Crested Gecko and Long-tailed Gecko are good choices. Tegu, Water Dragons, Monitor Lizards, Iguanas and Caiman lizards (Dracaena) are large reptiles.
If you are uncomfortable with feeding pets live food, Uromastyx and Iguanas are almost pure herbivores.
Chameleons and Iguanas are great ways to show off pets and are not interested in handling them.
If there is no particular space to raise pets, then choose not Iguana nor the Green Anole which does allow you to pet them.
Although all the lizards on this list are excellent first pets, they all need to be sorted out carefully.
Bearded dragons are one of the best choices for beginners to raise reptiles because of their friendly nature and their love toward handling.
Lizards can make exciting pets, but there are so many types that it is difficult to pick the right lizard for you. Some of the most popular lizards, such as Iguanas are not suitable for most pet owners. Choosing the right lizard will help you and your pet be happy for years to come.
Why choose LEOPARD GECKOS?
Leopard gecko is a very unique reptile, known for its amazing leopard appearance and huge, fat-laden tail. These small lizards will fit in your hand even when they grow up. They are some of the most popular lizard pets and good lizards for beginners. They make up good pets because they are gentle, easy to care for, and have many interesting colors and patterns. The gecko is definitely a cool lizard.
Gecko is a cute, docile and friendly lizard with many interesting behaviors and pleasant sounds. They adapt to handling very quickly and are easy to maintain for every beginner.
These are shy lizards with amazing predation and invasion abilities and camouflage themselves with leopard prints in dry desert rocks or high meadows. Because of their fat storing tails, these species can hide for a longer time, which can prevent them till their threat has been eliminated. They also shed more frequently than most lizards to prevent predators from smelling them. After all, the leopard gecko makes a very loud sound. It makes noises when it mates, defends itself, or when awakened by screaming, barking, or hissing.
A common yellow or lilac leopard gecko with brown or black spots, is oftenly called a Spotted Cat. Some of the patterns include high yellow, yellow, patternless, albino, eclipse, giant, snow poppy, enigma, hypo, carrot tail, carrot head etc,. Leopard geckos have short claws and fatty tail, which peel off when lizards feel threatened. Under captivity, this gecko can live for 15-20 years.
Almost all gecko sounds range from a soft squeak to the deafening hiss of African whistling gecko.
Many geckos do not have eyelids, but leopard geckos are not only translucent, but also movable, so they can blink and close their eyes while sleeping.
Like many lizards, the leopard gecko has a tail that can be easily broken when a predator catches it. This allows the gecko to escape when under attack. Unfortunately, it leaves a valuable source of food in. Tail used to store fat for lean periods.
They live a strict nocturnal lifestyle, away from the heat of the day, looking for food through holes and cracks at night.
How do you groom your pet lizard?
1 Habitat Maintenance
Clean and disinfect the habitat thoroughly at least once a week: place the gecko in a safe habitat; wipe the water tank and furnish with a 3% bleach solution; rinse thoroughly with water and remove all traces of bleach odor. Dry your water tank and furnish completely and add a clean substrate.
2 Care and Hygiene
Leopard geckos sheds regularly; ensure that the humidity in the habitat is high enough to allow adequate separation. To make it easier to shed off, provide a shed box, a leather case with peat moss, to help the shedding process.
3 Diet and Feeding schedule
Leopard Gecko’s balanced diet includes insects, crickets, mealworms, and wax worms, also using intestinal crickets. (freshly fed)
Points to consider when feeding leopard geckos:
· Always provide fresh, clean and chlorine-free water.
· Feed every day.
· Sprinkle daily calcium supplements and multivitamin supplements on food once or twice a week.
4 Housing and Substrate
A sufficiently large area with safe coverage; it is recommended to use a 10-20 gallon water tank for the leopard gecko. Provide multiple hiding locations with non-toxic plants, branches, trunks and cork. Keep the humidity below 50%.
Temperature gradient of 95°F for very hot/sunbathing and 78-88°F at extremely cold. 10 to 12 hours of light are needed every day; because leopard geckos are nocturnal, they do not need ultraviolet light. Incandescent lamps can be used for sunbathing; you can use ceramic heaters or night lights at any time. Do not put two or more male geckos together or house different kinds of reptiles together.
The substrate must be absorbent and easy to clean and should not cause choking hazard or toxicity to your pet even if accidentally swallowed. The substrate should not be too abrasive to reduce the risk of pet injuries, and it should also be made of materials that will not retain or absorb too much moisture for desert species.
Coconut Husk or Coco Chip is one of the safest, organic and most popular choices for reptile bedding. It is soft, comfortable, absorbent and enriched fibrous material. It comes in two versions: Coconut Husk for smaller lizards and Coco Chips for larger lizards. Its absorption can block unpleasant odors, retain moisture for a longer time and maintain a humid temperature. You can use it as needed. Wet the blocks, crush the pieces and put them in a container. Coconut bedding is easy to clean, store, non-allergenic, biodegradable, reusable and recyclable.
Carpet Liner is a sleek look and easy to clean substrate, making it an ideal habitat for your leopard gecko. Carpet Liner should be cleaned spotless and disinfected with reptile-specific cleaning solution once in a week. Maintain a healthy home for your pet.
For Leopard Gecko, calcium sand helps imitate the natural desert environment and has many beneficial benefits, such as prompting natural burial behavior. Calcium sand is not only non-toxic, but also rich in calcium and vitamins. A small amount of oral administration can provide great health benefits, but it should not replace the intake of dietary supplements. You can scoop the waste along the sand all at once.
General health Issue
Gastro-Intestinal Diseases: Loose stools, crusty or stains in ventilated areas, and loss of appetite due to bacterial or parasitic infections. Consult your veterinarian.
Metabolic Bone/Vitamin Deficiency: Insufficient calcium absorption due to insufficient UV-B light or insufficient calcium/vitamin D supplementation. If left untreated, this can lead to conditions characterized by deformities and weak bones. Limb swelling and lethargy. Please consult your veterinarian to make sure you have enough UVB and enough calcium/vitamin supplements.
Respiratory Diseases: Shortness of breath and mucus in the nose and mouth. This may be caused by the environment being too cold or too humid. Please consult your veterinarian to ensure that your environment is at the right temperature.
Are you looking for the best bedding for your snakes? Are you wandering which bedding type suits your snake? Irrespective of ball python, corn snake or garter snake you raise, each needs a comfortable place to dwell.
Snakes are the sensitive beings that opt for soft-cushiony substrate under them. A smooth, non-abrasive and a highly absorbent bedding is what the serpents like the most.
But some folks, there are few misconceptions on bedding snakes, they say ‘snakes are likely to use bedding the same as any other reptiles’. While the truth is, Snakes go well with any different kinds of beddings.
Let’s us have a brief look over different types of bedding available for snakes,
Cypress mulch is the most widely accepted snake bedding ever. It renders a comfortable, nice look when spread along. It gives off great burrowing experience for snakes, and is easy to clean. It also retains moisture well, and maintains the right humidity as required by the snakes.
Mats and mices cypress mulch as much as snakes, so need to look after the prevent those rodents from reaching out for the stored bedding. It also happens that, there exists mites and eggs in the loads of mulches all together. Then you might need to boil it or freeze the stock before using it.
· Great for burrowing snakes,
· Maintains right humidity,
· Natural and looks good,
· Easy to clean and use.
· A persistent presence of mites and eggs.
Coconut Husk or Chips
Coconut husks or chips are one of the safest and outstanding options for snake bedding. It is soft, comfortable, absorbent and extremely aerated one to know. It comes in 2 grades, coconut husks for small snakes while chips for larger snakes.
Its absorbance locks the odor intact, holds moisture longer and maintains humid temperature. You can make use of it as per your requirements.
For high-humidity snakes, you can use it directly without hydrating the compressed chip blocks while for low-humid seeking snakes, you can hydrate the block, crumble the pieces and spread it along the container.
Coconut bedding is easy to clean, store, non-allergen, biodegradable, reusable and recyclable.
· Takes care of humidity,
· 100% natural and organic,
· Suitable for low and high humid snakes,
· User and pocket friendly.
· Not too advisable for borrowing ones,
· Can be dusty sometimes.
One of the best suited bedding for burrowing snakes are Aspen shavings. Like any other wood shaving bedding, aspen shavings help control odor, regulate humidity.
Aspen shavings are the best substrate for burrowing. Like other wood beddings, they are good at controlling odours, but also susceptible to mites. Aspen shavings are not good for high humidity, since they can get moldy easily.
The fine particles can also get underneath the scales of larger snakes and cause irritation, so we would only use this for smaller snakes. Make sure the brand you choose is natural and does not use any dyes or other chemicals.
We actually recommend combining aspen shavings with coconut husk for snakes that need humid conditions, but also like to burrow. That way you get the best of both worlds.
· Best bedding for burrowing
· Natural look and feel
· Odour control
· Not good for large snakes
· Not good in humid environments
· Can get dusty
Fir bark is another wood-based substrate and makes a good alternative to cypress mulch. They are very similar. As such, it is also susceptible to mites, but works great as bedding. It retains humidity well, is good for burrowing and keeps odors at bay. It is also easy to clean up.
· Great for burrowing
· Great for maintaining humidity
· Natural look and feel
· Easy to clean
· Mites thrive in fir bark
Artificial Turf or Carpet
Artificial turf and carpeting can work well, but they have some obvious disadvantages that make them suitable only for certain species. Turf is preferable to carpet, since it mimics grass, but carpet scraps are generally cheaper.
The biggest disadvantage is that they obviously do not allow for burrowing, making them bad choices for snakes that like to dig. They also do nothing for humidity levels. Another problem is that they will absorb the odour of feces and urine over time.
You should always have at least 2 sets available, so that you can swap them out when one gets soiled to wash it. Even if you wash it well and immediately after the “incident”, a little bit of the smell sticks each time and it will keep growing. Eventually, you will have to completely replace the carpet or turf.
· Can be washed and reused multiple times (but not indefinitely)
· Easy to clean
· Will start to smell
· Does not allow burrowing
· Does not absorb moisture or help in regulating humidity
Newspaper Or Paper Towels
Newspaper is the cheapest option by far. Paper towels are similar, but end up costing about the same as other types of bedding.
Paper-based substrate is easy to clean (simply replace it), but it does not allow for burrowing and is obviously very susceptible to moisture. It also doesn’t look great in the enclosure, which may or may not matter to you.
· Newspaper is free
· Easy to clean
· Does not allow burrowing
· Will need to be replaced if it gets too wet, so it does nothing for humidity regulation
Sand is a more aesthetically pleasing substrate for snakes than newspaper or paper towels. You can purchase it at pet shops in a wide variety of colours to fit into your decorative scheme.
Snakes can burrow in sand, but it’s bad for your snake if the sand is swallowed. Ingested sand causes impaction and grains of sand can get under the snake’s scales. This bedding also gets soiled very quickly and must be completely replaced. Weigh its visual appeal against the potential problems.
We usually regard the well being of our pets in all aspects, including their feeds, health, rest but sometimes we unknowingly disregard the fact that pets are by fact animals that prefer natural surroundings rather than our superficial arrangements like artificial plaything, cushion beds and more.
Creating natural-safe environments is the foremost thing you do for your pets, and choosing a safer-healthier-organic bedding ranks first in it.
Reptile pets seek more natural habitat for themselves than any other pets. Most of the reptiles prefer beddings of nesting material and fluffy under foot in terrariums.
Reptiles appreciate a warm and mild humidity living environment the most. And choosing a bedding with the right attribute will make a bigger impact on their daily well-being and as well their lifespan.
Variety of Reptile bedding choices on stores are,
The bark blends are perfect enough to encourage the burrowing nature of reptiles. It promotes free movement of air and retaining moisture, which is essential for pet’s habitats. Bark blends eliminate insects and pests, being more absorbent and maintain humidity inside out.
· Promotes heat transfer and regualtes moisture inside the enclosure,
· 100% organic, made out of natural bark,
· Easy to eliminate pests,
· Ideal bedding depth of about 1 to 2 inches, remove-replace bedding whenever needed,
· Ideal for chameleons, frogs, snakes, skinks and rainforest geckos.
These coarse blend bedding are 100 % natural walnut shell grounds. Light-weighted, non-abrasive, gives off a smooth texture. This kind of blend acts as an excellent heat conduction substrate and is suitable for desert reptiles.
· Grounded walnut shells replicate best desert environment,
· Non-abrasive unlike sand,
· Stimulates natural digging and burrowing behaviour,
· Ideal bedding depth of about 1 to 2 inches, remove-replace bedding monthly,
· Ideal for desert dwelling reptiles such as: adult bearded dragons, monitors and desert skinks.
A fine blend for snakes and lizards are absolutely soft textured and chosen by professional herpetologists. The fully processed fine blended chips are ultra absorbent and hypo allergen that are 100% safe and natural.
· Recommended grade for snakes and lizards,
· Soft and smooth texture,
· Hypo-allergenic, and are safe and natural,
· User-friendly-easy to clean and use,
· Ideal for snakes, monitors, skinks and geckos.
A 100% natural, organic compressed coco coir pith that expands 10x times when hydrated. It makes up an ideal environment for reptiles for laying eggs and encourages burrowing. It maintains humid temperatures, regulates air in and out, and retains moisture longer than others.
· 100% natural, organic, made of coconut fiber,
· Highly absorbent, retains moisture longer and expands upto 10x times of its volume,
· Keeps terrarium humid and provides superior aeration,
· Ideal bedding depth of about 1 to 2 inches, remove-replace bedding whenever needed,
· Ideal for chameleons, rainforest geckos, frogs, toads and egg incubation.
A roll down carpet, specially designed to lay inside the enclosure/terrarium. Made out of highly absorbent, non-abrasive material which is soft to pet’s feet. Treated with biodegradable enzymes to keep reptiles in check. And a reusable one. You can cut and adjust to the size of your enclosure and it is safe even if the reptiles ingest the liners.
· Requires less maintenance, cut to the size of your need,
· Safe even the reptiles ingested them, a good alternative especially for juvenile reptiles,
· Treated to reduce odours,
· Easy to clean, non-abrasive material that is soft to feet of reptiles,
With these as said, we hope all our fellow reptile pet lovers enjoyed reading an optimal bedding choices for your beloved pets 😎
Please feel free to leave us comments, suggestion and cues on interested topics you wanna read.
Here we depict a deliberate process on how to make bedding for your pretty horses step by step.
With this in mind, let us make a quick visit to a stall where bedding is made out of the owner’s preference as ground substrate cautionaries for equines.
One will always be spirited when one is making comfort for their beloved ones, if they are energetic, ever cheerful companions like Horses, then one will exhaust all his energy to get it best done. But here is the simplest, tactful and handful advice for all dedicated fellow horse lovers.
Before we jump into the main topic let’s have a brief talk on maintaining the clean barn, the bedding laid within the clean barn will be more efficient. Here are some right tools to make the job easier, and stall cleaning an exceptional good.
Muck Bucket or wheelbarrow
For one to be precise, stall cleaning is much of saving time, money and energy of caretakers’ , prioritising hygiene at most. Also lessening bedding consume.
Live threats are also resolved when maintaining stall hygiene diligently.
Simple cleaning process
Toss clean, unsoiled bedding against the walls and into back corners.
Toss manure and dirty, wet bedding into the center of the stall or directly into a muck bucket or wheelbarrow.
Rake out center of the stall.
Sweep the center of the stall thoroughly and pick up any remaining dirty material with a shovel.
Sprinkle absorbent deodorizer on any wet spots.
Leave the empty stall to air dry with bedding pushed back as long as possible until you prepare new bedding.
Swift and Tactful bedding process
Based on the layout of the stall, the bedding backpacks are brought into the stall. Most often one using rubber mat as rigid grounding of 3.6mm(12’) x 1.8mm(6’) bed size requires 3-5 bags per yard.
Put the bag packs in 2 cross lines, and fold the end hinge inboard to avoid further trouble of out flow.
Pouring cold water, it may take an hour to absorb for it to fluff all up. Else the warm water will do in 20mins.
Invert the bag upside down, break with force and crumble all.
Spread out up to the layer 5inches, the volume of spreading on your wish, as horses like fluffy to their feet.
It’s preferred to take inhabitants out for a walk while clean and bedding since it provides them with fresh air and sets one’s mind at peace.