CategoriesLifestyle Pets Bedding Tips & Tricks
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10 Best Cat As Pet

Adopting your first cat may be a thrilling experience, but it can also be stressful. A new cat, as beautiful and cuddly as it is, is also a lot of work, especially if you receive a kitten rather than a fully grown cat. Cats may appear to be more low-maintenance than dogs, and they are in certain respects. However that doesn’t imply they’re maintenance-free! They still require a lot of love, care, and attention. You must know everything about them, from when and what to feed them to how to train them, which can be difficult at times to what to do with them while you’ll be gone for several periods. You will like a cat breed that makes your life a bit simpler if you’re a first-time owner.

Different types of cats, like every other animal, have distinct characteristics. Other breeds are a little more high-maintenance than others, while some types are more sociable and friendly than others. You want a cat that will be easy to get along with, especially if you have other pets, and that will not take up a lot of your attention as your first pet.

For cat lovers all around the globe, these ten breeds are the most popular.

1. Siamese

Siamese cats are intelligent and fascinating to be around. Their look is quite simple to maintain: they don’t have lengthy hair, therefore they don’t require much brushing or combing. The Siamese is one of the most well-known cat breeds, thanks to its light-colored coats, black features, and stunning blue eyes. They have a pleasant demeanour and are loyal, yet they are also outgoing and curious. The Siamese is excellent at picking up new skills and much better at instructing his humans to do what he wants. The Siamese has an unique “pointed” coat with a light base and darker points in seal, lilac, chocolate, and blue on the ears, mask, legs, and tail. Tabby, crimson, cream, silver, and smoke are some of the other point colours. Siamese may live for up to 15 years.

2. Persian Cats

Persian cats are loving, calm, gorgeous creatures of habit, making them the most popular breed among cat fanciers. They are known for their gentle, laid-back demeanour, charming features, and big eyes. Despite their royal look, Persians don’t require much to be content, and they are typically found curled up in your lap. Their lengthy hair, on the other hand, requires regular grooming and should be combed regularly to eliminate matting.

3. Maine Coon

The Maine coon cat is a giant domesticated cat that is a natural breed. It has a well-balanced rectangular body that is medium to large, muscular, and broad-chested. The coat of the Maine coon is thick and shaggy, with shorter shoulders and longer britches and stomach. It has a long flowing tail and a beautiful front ruff. It also has ear tufts, foot tufts, and a long flowing tail. The Maine coon cat is a great pet for children, dogs, and older people, earning it the title of third most popular breed in America and the nickname “gentle giant.” Maine Coon cats may grow to be 12-18 pounds in weight, with some reaching 20 pounds. This breed is not only lively and loving, but also clever and easily trainable. The Maine Coon is an excellent choice for a family pet. 

4. Ragdoll Cats 

Ragdoll cats are named for their gentle demeanour. When lifted up, they become limp, similar to a rag doll. People used to believe they couldn’t feel pain, but this is no longer the case. Ragdolls have pointed colour patterns and resemble long-haired Siamese cats. They also have unique blue eyes and follow their owners around the home, as if they were dogs. Ragdolls are highly sociable and mild-mannered, and they frequently seek out human contact by following their owners about the home, sleeping with, or flopping on them. This breed is especially excellent with children and other pets, and may be taught to perform behaviours similar to dogs, such as fetch, rolling over, and begging.

5. Bengal 

Bengal cats are stunning, intelligent, and wild-looking felines. Because of its patterns and personality, this hybrid cat breed is gaining popularity, and it maintains approximately the same size as a large domestic house cat. They were created by crossing an Asian leopard cat, Felis bengalensis with a domestic house cat such an Abyssinian, Egyptian mau, or American shorthair. Bengal cats are active, so you should give a climbing tree and places for your cat to view the room from a perch. To keep your cat entertained, use engaging toys. You may teach your cat to fetch and “catch the laser dot” by spending time together playing.

6. Abyssinian

Abys, as they are affectionately known, are graceful and regal-looking cats that are easy to care for and make excellent companions for cat enthusiasts. Abyssinians are lively and expressive animals with somewhat wedge-shaped heads, half-cupped ears, medium-length bodies, and well-developed musculature. They have long, thin legs and short, close-lying coats. Their general look is similar to that of ancient Egyptian cats. Abyssinians are not lap cats, but they are loving, loyal, and get along with children and other pets in most cases. Abyssinians are people-oriented cats who enjoy participating in the events taking place around them. They are known for their curiosity, playfulness, and urge to explore their surroundings.

7. Birmans

Birmans, like the Siamese and ragdoll, are color-pointed cats. They are distinguished from Persians and Himalayans by their blue eyes and medium-length hair with no undercoat. Birmans were the initial stock for breeding ragdolls, thus they appear quite similar, but their markings and dispositions are slightly different. The Birman is a pointed cat with seal, blue, red, chocolate, cream, and tortie colours recognised by the CFA. The points of the standard and lynx patterns are both recognised. They are sociable cats who enjoy being the centre of attention from their preferred human. They are a one-person cat compared to others.

8.  Exotic Shorthair Cats

The Exotic cat, also known as the Exotic shorthair, is a mix between Persians and American Shorthairs and has been crowned America’s most popular registered cat.

With one exception: their coats, exotic cats are bred to fit the Persian standard in nearly every aspect. Exotics, unlike Persians, have short, thick, dense coats, making them popular with individuals who desire the Persian personality without the trouble or time commitment of daily maintenance. Exotic personalities are similar to Persian personalities in that they are pleasant, loving, and playful. Exotic cats are believed to be more affectionate and devoted than other cat breeds, and they frequently follow their owners throughout the house.

9. Sphynx

One of the emerging cat breeds is the Sphynx, a hairless, wrinkled marvel with large ears and eyes and prominent cheekbones. To develop a genetically sound and robust breed, the Sphynx has been mated with regular shorthair cats and then bred back to hairless. Many cat enthusiasts have noticed the breed’s distinct appearance. Despite its rarity, it has lately become one of the most sought-after cats in the United States. Sphynxes are unquestionably “people cats.” They are vivacious, funny, and lively creatures who like being the centre of attention. The Sphynx is not a cat that lives outside. Sphynx cats need to be protected from the weather since their skin is exposed. This is not to say they would not go outside; it just means they shouldn’t live outside.

10. Scottish Fold

Many Scottish fold cats are sweet-natured and modest, with a characteristic that distinguishes them from other cats: folded ears that give the breed an owl-like look.

Scottish fold cats are noted for their laid-back personalities and for being extremely affectionate and friendly with people and other household pets. Outgoing and lively, this breed develops a strong attachment to one family member. The gentle voice of the Scottish fold cat is also well-known, as is its ability to “talk” in a range of purrs and meows not heard in many other cat breeds.

How to Choose a Cat for Your Family

When seeking for a feline companion to join your household, keep in mind that there are many aspects to consider besides friendliness when selecting which cat breed is perfect for you.

Though these breeds are recognised for their friendly demeanour, each cat is unique, so speaking with a breeder or shelter for further information on specific cats you might be interested in taking home can be beneficial.

After all, any cat owner will tell you that you have a significant influence on your cat’s personality. Give them the love and affection they require, and they will reciprocate.

Conclusion

Several cats are popular due to their distinct personality qualities, spectacular physical looks that are difficult to forget, or their breed’s proclivity for living longer lives. Before deciding which cat is appropriate for you, learn more about the breed by speaking with other cat owners, reputable breeders, and rescue groups.

CategoriesDogs As Pet Lifestyle Pets Bedding Tips & Tricks
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10 Best Dogs As Pet

The bond between people and dogs has long been recognised as one of the strongest in the world. Their lovely looks and upbeat demeanors bring so much joy into our lives. Your puppy can help you improve your health and social life by helping you get in shape and meeting new people. There are several dog breeds to choose from. However, not every dog is made equal. Based on characteristics like health, personality, and general popularity, these are the top ten dog breeds.

1. Labrador Retriever

The Labrador Retriever is one of the most popular dog breeds for a reason. These dogs are lively, patient, loving, protective, and dependable. Another advantage is that Labs are quite clever and respond well to instruction. They need a lot of exercise, and they love to swim, so be sure your family is up to the task. Make certain kids have enough space to run around and play.

Whether they’re Black Labs, Chocolate Labs, or Yellow Labs, they all have the same stamina, strength, and loyalty that has made them so popular. These friendly dogs get along with other animals and almost everyone they encounter, and their short coats mean they only need to be combed once a week to be clean and healthy. However, because Labradors shed, you should be prepared to clean up their fur on a frequent basis.

2. French Bulldog

Anyone who sees a French bulldog strolling down the street can’t help but grin. Their huge bat ears and burly tiny bodies make them one of the most recognised breeds on the planet. Yet Frenchies are used to being the centre of attention, readily establishing friends with both people and other animals. These bouncy dogs were popular among the Parisian aristocracy in the 1800s, and they are still popular among city people today. They don’t bark much, don’t require much activity, and are tiny enough to not take up too much space on the couch!

3. German Shepherd

For good reason, German Shepherds are frequently used as police and military dogs. They’re courageous, loyal, and extremely intelligent. German shepherds are alert dogs who guard their owners in the same way as their forefathers guarded flocks of sheep, which was the breed’s original purpose. However, they like playing with children, especially during their puppy years. A well-socialized German shepherd makes an ideal family companion due to its calm disposition and patient nature. Just make sure you can provide them with lots of activity!

4. Golden Retriever

The Golden Retriever is a self-assured, intelligent, loving, and loyal dog. The Golden Retriever is neither aggressive nor timid, and they are incredibly patient, making them an ideal companion for children. Despite the fact that the breed requires a lot of activity, they like playing. You’ll frequently discover that the playful Golden Retriever is also friendly and obedient, ensuring that your children will fall in love with him right away. Brushing their gorgeous golden coats twice a week is required for proper upkeep.

5. Bulldog

The Bulldog is the breed to choose if you want a loving, patient dog who will act kindly toward children. The Bulldog is built to last and is ideal for children. He won’t, however, be recognised as the “most active dog.” The Bulldog is a calm, sociable, and loyal dog who gets along well with other pets and canines. The Bulldog feels at ease in both large and tiny apartments. Most are also friendly to outside guests and get along with other dogs, making them ideal for a busy, sociable home. Because of their modest size, they may be used in both large and small homes.

If you’re thinking of obtaining a Bulldog, bear in mind that their constricted jaw requires additional attention when it comes to tooth cleaning, and wheezing, snoring, and drooling are all part of the package. To avoid dirt accumulation, the creases around their tail and face wrinkles will need to be cleansed. Their coat, on the other hand, requires very little attention.

6. Beagle

Since of their tiny size, Beagles are easy to transport! This breed is ideal for families because of its peaceful disposition. Beagles were bred to be hunting dogs, and because of their robust physique, they are never too weary to play games. If your children enjoy being outside, this breed will fit right in because there is nothing they enjoy more than getting outside and exploring the trails. With the exception of a little chasing here and there, the Beagle is a smart, sociable, and happy dog. They do shed, therefore brushing and washing are required on a regular basis.

7. Poodle

Aside from its unique hairstyles, the Poodle is a highly intelligent and kind dog. This dog breed is proud and beautiful, loving and devoted, and seldom annoyed or bored. Poodles come in both miniature and normal sizes, allowing you to select the Poodle size that best suits your living situation. They’re ideal for youngsters with allergies because they don’t shed much. Each breed has its own set of advantages. For example, the Standard Poodle breed is obedient, intelligent, playful, and adventurous. They get along well with individuals and children they know, despite their shyness towards strangers. Miniature Poodles, on the other hand, have a tendency to devote themselves to a single person, although they get along well with other pets and children. They are intelligent, responsive, obedient, and amusing. However, regardless of the Poodle breed, grooming is required on a regular basis.

8. Rottweiler

Rottweilers are a famous breed that dates back to the Roman Empire. Rottweilers are loyal to their owners and might be hesitant to warm up to outsiders. They’re hard workers with a history as herders and guardians, but they also love a nice hug at the end of the day. Because of their height and strength, this breed is best suited to experienced dog owners who have the time and patience to provide ongoing training and socialisation throughout their lives—both of which are necessary for keeping these clever pups happy and healthy.

9. German Shorthaired Pointer

A German shorthaired pointer is the ideal companion for outdoor enthusiasts (GSP). This dog is always ready for an adventure, whether it’s swimming, hunting, or going for a walk around the neighbourhood. GSPs have a lot of energy, so they’re best suited to active families, especially those who spend a lot of time outside.

10. Dachshund

It’s the world’s most popular weenie! The dachshund is a tiny dog with a big personality and a lot of energy. Despite being a more independent breed, they make a wonderful pet in almost any sort of home if given the right care. However, don’t leave doxies alone for lengthy periods of time; they have a loud bark and aren’t hesitant to express themselves. Dachshund owners should have tolerance and a good sense of humour to match their furry friend.

Which Dog Is Best For You?

Dogs can teach children responsibility, compassion, and collaboration while also providing the finest playmates imaginable. It’s usually a good idea to investigate the ideal dog breed for your children and lifestyle before you acquire any puppy. Some canines are better suited as playmates for boisterous older children, while others have gentle, patient personalities that are more suited for small children. Consider adopting an older dog if you have small children at home. 

Your choice may be influenced by your living circumstances, schedule, degree of activity, and money. When you bring a new pet into the family, you should anticipate continuous, caring training. Learning how to engage with animals in a safe and polite manner will also help your child. Remember to set aside time for walking, playing, feeding, and grooming as a family! Your team won’t be able to picture life without their canine companion if they have one of these charming, caring dog breeds.

Conclusion

Dogs are better than any other pet because they are incredibly devoted and comfort, defend, and adore their owners unconditionally. Remember that while these dogs may have traits that make them ideal family companions, regular training and socialisation will be required to help them become decent canine citizens.

chameleon-posterCategoriesLifestyle Lizards Care and Habitat Pets Bedding Tips & Tricks
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Caring for your Pet Lizard – Chameleon

Chameleons are fascinating animals that only suit those who are totally into it. Chameleons are referred less for the beginner herpetologist because their care requirements are fairly particular and they are easily stressed. Many “true” chameleon species have native habitats ranging from Yemen and Saudi Arabia southward to Madagascar and areas of Eastern Africa.

Appearance and Behaviour

Young chameleons are often a dull gray/brown tint with the ability to shift shades. Around the age of five months, the adult colour and ability to shift colours emerge, and a variety of colours, including green, blue-green, turquoise, and black, are visible. Camouflage, temperature regulation, and communication with other chameleons are all benefits of changing hues. Chameleons, unlike anoles, change colours in response to a variety of stimuli, including excitement, stress, temperature, lighting conditions, the presence of another chameleon, and other factors.

A stressed chameleon is usually dark brown to black, with brighter hues expressing a happy disposition.

Chameleons grab prey with their tongues. Chameleons can have tongues that are up to 1.5 times the length of their bodies, allowing them to grab insects from afar.

The veiled chameleon is one of the biggest chameleon species seen in captivity, with adult males reaching a total length of 2 feet and females reaching about 18 inches. Hatchling chameleons are about 3 to 4 inches long in total. A well-cared-for and robust male chameleon can survive for six to eight years as a pet. Females, on the other hand, have a lifespan of four to six years on average. Female chameleons produce sterile clutches of eggs even if they haven’t bred, similar to chickens. This consumes a lot of energy and eventually exhausts the females.

Basking Temperatures Requirements For Chameleon 

To thermoregulate and control their body temperature, chameleons require a temperature gradient. This effectively means that your enclosure must have both a hot and a cold side. All of the lighting and heating equipment should be on one side, with the cool side on the other. As a result, your chameleon will be able to switch between the various temperatures as needed. If your cage is tall, your temperature gradient will be top to bottom rather than side to side.

A basking space with a temperature of 85-95 degrees should be available. The rest of the enclosure might be anything between 72 and 80 degrees. Temperatures can dip to as low as 65 degrees at night. Use a temperature gauge that is of good quality. A Reptile basking bulb is the simplest way to raise the temperature in your enclosure.

Lighting for Chameleon

Chameleons require UVA and UVB exposure. Additionally, allowing some exposure to natural sunshine through an open window will help keep chameleons happy and healthy because glass screens out virtually all of the necessary UV rays. UVB lights should be turned on for at least 10 hours every day.

Humidity level 

Chameleons spend the majority of their time in trees. They don’t drink from a motionless water bowl on the ground in the wild. Water your lizard at least twice a day using a spray bottle, usually for at least a minute each time, getting all the leaves and branches wet. Check to see if your pet is getting adequate water. It’s a symptom of dehydration if its eyes become sunken or less cone-shaped.

How do I set up a chameleon habitat?

Chameleons should be kept in separate enclosures. Choose a terrarium or screened enclosure that is at least 16 x 16 x 30 inches and is well-ventilated. Reptile carpet, 2 to 3 inches of coconut fibre or reptile bark, should be used to line the bottom of the habitat. Clean the floor material on a regular basis and replace it at least once a month. To elevate your pet no closer than 8 inches from the terrarium’s heat source, use rocks and real or artificial branches purchased from a store. The chameleon’s grip should be just slightly wider in diameter than the branches.

What do chameleons eat?

Feed your waxworms or chameleon crickets on a daily basis. Only give the chameleon as much as he or she can consume before the end of the day. Any leftovers should be discarded. Twice a week, dust insects with a calcium supplement. Once a day, chameleons should eat appropriate greens like collards or mustard greens. Provide only as much food as the Veiled Chameleon can consume in four hours, and then discard any leftovers.

Chameleons do not consume food from dishes. Instead, they hydrate themselves by licking water off their skin and the environment, thus keeping the habitat well-watered.

When to feed your chameleon? Keep the following in mind,

·   Water your plants by misting them 4 to 5 times each day and/or using a dripper.

·   Feed on a daily basis. Food should be available to children at all times.

·   Add a calcium supplement to your food once or twice a week, and a multivitamin supplement once or twice a week.

·   Vegetables that haven’t been consumed in the last 24 hours should be tossed.

Habitat Maintenance

At least once a week, thoroughly clean and disinfect the habitat: Scrub the tank and furnishings with a 3 percent bleach solution; rinse thoroughly with water to remove any signs of bleach smell; properly dry the tank and furnishings before adding clean substrate.

Grooming & Hygiene

Chameleons shed their skin on a regular basis, so keep the humidity in the habitat at a comfortable level to allow for optimal shedding. Provide a shed box, such as a hide box filled with sphagnum moss, to aid in the shedding process.

Common Health Problems

Many chameleons are deficient in calcium and vitamin A, which is mainly caused by a poor diet. They’re also prone to mouth rot, commonly known as stomatitis, an infection that causes redness, copious saliva, and drooling around the mouth.

Metabolic bone disease is another common condition among chameleons. The bones of a chameleon become spongy due to this ailment, which can be fatal if not treated properly. They’ll appear sluggish and possibly lose their appetite.

It’s best to visit a veterinarian who specialises in reptiles if your pet appears ill or anxious, as with any other condition. Before consulting a veterinarian, try to stay away from home cures.

Handling

While some chameleons will tolerate some handling, the most will not. Excessive holding causes most people to get stressed. Chameleons prefer to be at the top of the food chain. Even those that are used to being handled will normally prefer to walk up your arm and to the top of your head. Some chameleons prefer to come out of their enclosure and walk around on a network of vines or “trees” that you have set up for them.

You’ll learn about your chameleon’s personality and what it will accept in terms of interaction and handling as you work with it. Have a good time and enjoy your lovely pet.

Interesting facts about Chameleon

·    There are more than 200 chameleon species.

·    Chameleons come in a wide range of sizes.

·    They use their toes and tails to get around.

·    Chameleons don’t change colors to camouflage themselves.

·    They have panoramic vision.

·    They have sticky, speedy tongues.

Substrate for your Chameleon

The bottom of a cage or enclosure is lined with substrate or bedding. Simple flat newspaper is the finest substrate for chameleons because it is inexpensive, recyclable, and easy to dispose of. Reptile carpet, 2 to 3 inches of coconut fibre, should be used to line the bottom of the habitat. Avoid beddings with minute particles, such as sand, kitty litter, cedar, gravel, corn cob bedding, and beddings that hold extra moisture if a particulate or natural substrate is employed. Bacterial and fungal growth can be aided by moisture retained in bedding.

Substrate Types

Newspaper

Newspaper is another viable substrate option. An easy way is to use newspapers, which are generally readily available in the home. To cover the entire floor area, use three or four layers of newspaper. It is advised that newspaper substrates be replaced on a daily basis. Spills should be cleared as quickly as possible. Despite their unsightly appearance, newspapers are a reasonably cost-effective solution.

Pros:

•       Easy to replace

•       Affordable

Cons:

•       Wet or damp newspaper cause bacterial infection

Coconut Fiber

EcoBed Reptile Bedding - Small Reptiles

Besides Chameleons, a coconut fiber-based substrate is a good choice. Coconut is one of the most secure substrates accessible. It forms a cluster around the droppings, making cleanup a little easier for you, the owner. Coconut has antimicrobial properties as well. It will capture and even kill bacteria found in faeces. It was created without the use of any chemicals and is also environmentally friendly.

Pros:

•       Very natural look

•       Self-cleaning and easy cleanup of droppings

•       Affordable and good value

Cons:

•       May attract mites and bugs over time

Choosing Your Chameleon

When looking for a pet chameleon, search for one that has been captive bred. Wild-caught species are typically anxious, have a high parasite load, and have a hard time acclimating to captivity.

Chameleons aren’t the easiest or most difficult reptiles to care for, and starting with a stressed animal can only make things worse. Furthermore, the capture and transportation of chameleons, which is now more strictly regulated, resulted in the deaths of numerous animals. Many more animals perish in transit than ever make it to the pet store.

Observe a captive-bred chameleon once you’ve discovered one. They should be energetic and bright, with the ability to change colours and a well-fleshed body.

Different Species of Chameleon

Chameleons come in a variety of colours and are popular as pets. Here are a few possibilities to think about:

Veiled Chameleon

Veiled chameleons are hardy, striking-looking lizards with tall casque helmet-like structures on the tops of their heads. Both males and females have a casque that helps direct water that drips onto their heads into their mouths. Veiled chameleons have bands of green, yellow, and brown on their body that shift to different colours.
Small children and novice lizard keepers should avoid these chameleons as pets.

Jackson’s Chameleon

Jackson’s chameleons were native to East Africa, but in recent years have been introduced into California, Hawaii, and even Florida.
The length of a Jackson’s chameleon, including the tail, ranges from 9 to 13 inches. Males are often bigger than females. In captivity, they can survive for 5 to 10 years.

Panther Chameleon

Panther chameleons appear in a variety of spectacular colour morphs or phases, each of which is named after a geographical region in its native environment of Madagascar. Females have less colour variety, frequently orange or brownish, and a less striking “helmet” of ridges along the sides of the head than males, as well as being smaller.
Panther chameleons are a favourite among lizard owners because of their generally calm nature and the fact that they’re very easy to care for compared to other lizards.

CategoriesCoco Coir Bedding Lifestyle Tips & Tricks Worm Bedding
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Why do Vermiculturist reach out for Coco Coir bedding ?

Worm Farming is a professional cultivation of worms for the cause of converting waste such as fruits, vegetables, food and animal faeces into organic fertilizers. 

A worm, as a key asset in balancing effective and efficient fertigation of compost needs to be well grown. 

Bedding gives off a fresh environment for worms, a space to move around and shelter.  

The worm bin bedding should regard every detailing that concerns worm growth-content-productivity. 

Worm farmers/ Vermiculturist decide on choice of bedding used for their worms based on the factors below. 

  • Non-abrasive
    The worm’s skin is delicate and can be easily hurt. 
  • Light weighed
    The bedding should be light-weighted, easy to carry even when wasted. 
  • Deeply aerated
    It is crucial for any bedding to allow air-water flow and lesser thick odor. 
  • High moisture
    Must retain water for a longer duration.
  • Neutral pH
    Neither being acidic nor basic gives bedding a neutrality as a bedding substrate. 
  • Fibrous nature
    Bedding must be made of fibrous material like cellulose in order to convert into carbon molecules after breaking down from energy conversion. 

Likewise, any Worm Bedding needs to qualify the above said quality to be a supple bedding choice. Sometimes, worms do eat their bedding, so it is precarious to use biological bedding. 

As such, Coco Coir Worm Bedding is one-among-many that benefits worms in multiple ways. 

Coco Coir is a fibrous material derived from coconut husk, is an all-natural, non-toxic, non-abrasive, cost-effective product that improves worms’ inhabitants. 

Coir is light- weighted, readily fluffed, has air pockets for easy air-water flow, enables free access for worm movement. 

It is a super absorbent(50-60% moisture) with high saturation, holding water(every 1lbs brick holds 6lbs of water) and nutrients effectively, keeping the worm bin moist-damp. Thus foul odor managed. 

It is a harmless choice that is non-toxic, chemical-free, inert to chemical reaction that supasses any other worm bedding available. 

CategoriesCoco Coir Bedding Horse Bedding Manure Management Tips & Tricks
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Horse Manure Management Guidelines

In this article, we are discussing the better management of manure and reducing the risk of pollution caused by manure, bedding and feed wastes. 

Composting is one such great method that produces a stable-sustainable-storable product that inhibits pathogens growth, and conserves nutrient quality in it. 

The Management of composting horse manure includes Composting Mix, Maintaining, Monitoring and Testing of Manure and Compost, Environmental Issues, Compost Use and Costs. 

Composting Mix

The very first recommendation is to get the right composition for composting mix. The mix needs to comprise an optimal level of 3 main factors that depict the worth of the end product.   

The amount of manure, feedstock and bedding in the compost pile are thoroughly mixed. The Moisture, Air flow and C:N ratio plays a critical role in mixing compilation. 

Maintaining 

The composting can be done, both in Open pile and Closed shed as per the care taker’s wish. Building a shed for composting makes it easy for handling horse manure, pleasant surroundings and there will be less chance of nutrient runoff and leaching issues. 

It is preferred to make a Buffered zone for compost maintenance, isolated from residential and water resources. It helps prevent water pollution due to leachate, runoff and air pollution from foul odor. 

The buffer zone is subject to compliance with local ordinances and is recommended to be 150 feet from living quarters and the bottom elevation should be above water level or installed on concrete slabs. 

Open Pile– Like a free-stacking of hay pile, the manure pile can be raised till the height of 4-6’ tall. A regular mixing is required to ensure pathogen reduction, that a good stacking with minimal overturning will make good compact. A carefully considered piling is required to prevent leaching and runoff. 

Closed Shed– A shed composting consists of several side-bins, when the first bin is filled, then the content can be turned into the next bin. The pile height should not exceed 6 feet to ensure that compost is aerated. Bins are covered with roof to reduce possible runoff and no leachate is generated under the roof. 

Proper over-turning of compost is essential. 

The important aspect for a composting site is to allow access all-year round and well drained.

CategoriesCoco Coir Bedding Dairy Farm Horse Bedding Lifestyle Tips & Tricks
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3 Factors of Horse Manure Management

Compost is basically a biological process that converts organic matter into fine particle humus. It involves a series of decomposition of microorganisms, digesting of organic matters. In this case, the organic matter is Horse Manure, Feeds and Beddings.  

Composting helps minimize the waste-maximise microbial activity, thus balancing the farm ecosystem, tending hygiene and ensuring horses’ health. 

On an average, every horse produces 30 lbs of feces and 2.5 gal. of urine along with spoiled bedding of about 10-12 lb is disposed every day. All up together, this accounts almost 50-65 lbs/day. 

The crisis of waste management starts with 5 important reasons that depicts the need for proper management of manure, popularly known as Horse Manure Management.

The main aim of Horse Manure Management is to keep each and every aspect of manure in check.

Originally, Horse Manure varies from horse to horse, feeds provided and type of bedding used, and is best if sorted early when manure produced is measured on weekly routine.  

These manures are the valuable and un-utilised resource that mobilise large amount of soil amendment and plant nourishing fertilizers.

Composting is one such method deployed in Horse Manure Management, and is feasible-affordable for every barn/farm owner. 

Composting enriches gardens, pastures by improving soil texture, aeration and water retention. Also, compost mix helps increase soil fertility, control erosion and balance pH. 

However, key features need to be ensured for proper composting and a good final product.

Temperature

Temperature is one of the most important indicator of how well your composting is taking place. The temperature is a fluctual result of airflow in and out of the manure pile. If the airflow is at optimal level, higher the temperature, greater the heat generated.

Try flipping your pile upside down, to distribute heat evenly throughout the massive pile. An even distribution of hot air will help suppress pathogens, fly larvae and weed seed/egg and accelerate the speed of decomposition. 

Although, a vigilant temperature needs to be maintained in order to carry out decomposition steady and swift. 

More generally, a lower temperature range of 50-110oF is required at initial stages of decomposition, later 110-160oF to break down organic matter, kill weeds, pathogens and increase microbial activity as they are hyper-thermal activists. Over a period of weeks or month, the temperature gradually drops to ambient temperature for the decomposition to settle down.

Either way, overheating immobilises many beneficial organisms or falling behind will hinder decomposition rate. 

Lower the surrounding temperature; lower will be the composting rate. At the times of Winter, it takes 3-6 month for a normal compost to happen while it only takes 1-2 months for a pile to turn compost during Summer. 

Note: Always keep piles upto 3-4 feets high and square base of 5-7 feets for building up a necessary temperature pressure within it. Get a Compost thermometer at local stores to get exact compost temperature every few days. 

Moisture content

Moisture Management is necessarily a priority task while composting. An apt moisture will bring a perfect compost mix else it leads to odor, slow decomposition, and hard to achieve high temperature. 

Either, the lack of moisture will cause composting organisms to dry out and prevent pile heat up. 

There are severe ways to make sure that your pile is having sufficient moisture or not. 

One, you can manually check by squeezing the pile of innermost layers and see through it. If it is damp enough to hold moisture or too wet that it dries out after squeezing leaving behind dry lump. Then make a precautionary moist supply. 

Two, cover your pile using a tarp sheet to prevent it from getting excessively wet in the rainy season or too dry in hot days of summer.  This will also help limit flies, weeds and sweeping nutrients off the pile.

Three, frequent watering will help balance water hold, as it evaporates due to heat and airflow. Try turning the pile either side to provide a significant amount of water to it. 

Also, you may select the right location for your pile build, making it more convenient for clean-carry out-use. A right place, which is high enough to drain excess water or pour additional water when required, thus moisture maintained. 

Pile composition

Often the compost quality depends upon Pile Composition. Pile material provides essential nutrients, and vital decomposing proportion for compost, it renders ‘Carbon for Energy and Nitrogen for Growth’. The microorganisms that are turned into compost are fueled by Carbon and Nitrogen. 

Nitrogen is mainly found in manure and Carbon is found in bedding material, their proper proportion ensures successful composting. An ideal C:N proportion is estimated between 25:1 to 30:1, where carbon is in larger numbers. 

More precisely, Carbon is primarily released by carbon-rich material like straw, wood chips, shavings, sawdust and leaves while animal-byproducts like manure and feeds are rich in Nitrogen. 

Avoid using more bedding into pile build-up, more the bedding (carbon); longer the time for compost completion. Alternatively, if you’re using Coco bedding for your horse, you can reduce carbon pile up in your compost and reduce decompose after effects. 

Note: Compost is combustible, keep the compost pile away from housing, avoid smoking near the compost pile. 

A finished compost will reduce to half its original size, smells good and be like a rich soil. 

CategoriesCoco Coir Bedding Horse Bedding Tips & Tricks
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Top 9 Measures before laying Horse Bedding

Horses are the charming and a faithful companion, being along the human race imparting an immense love and care towards their partner. And it is also an apt investment done at once for the latter’s yield. The last thing you want to do is endanger their health or even their life without a prior knowledge in the aspect of bedding. So better be prepared than repent.

The word bedding is a consoling term that eases the seekers with peace and comfort, at the same time delivers a tacit boon for the owners. For horses, by default they don’t require a soft-sponge like bed but a sturdy, durable and hard to wear out. According to what so said, below are the critical criteria that are to be met, before making a bedding:

  • Safer for horse
  • Absorbent and Dust free
  • Hoof supportive- Resilient
  • Cushioning hocks and joints- Sturdy
  • Hygienic
  • Space and time feasible
  • Easy available
  • Biodegradable
  • Economical

Safer for horses

If you are approaching a non-traditional product, be sure to check with your vet or other knowledgeable resource because some materials are extremely toxic to horses. As some kinds of chipping served as bedding are not recommendable, as they are toxic to horses when eaten, especially those used in landscaping (such as black locust, parts of oak trees, horse chestnut, etc.). Also, horses could be tempted to eat the molding green material in the chips, you should evaluate any health risk before choosing.

Absorbent and Dust free

You’ll want an absorbent bedding with low dust, mold and foreign object count. Also, the greater the bedding’s absorbency, the lower the ammonia level will be in your barn, and breathing ammonia can damage lung tissue in you and your horse.

The biggest threat comes from airborne dust and spores that can attack the horse’s respiratory system, ranging from mild inflammation and mucus production to chronic, career-ending Recurrent Airways Obstruction disease (RAO – sometimes still referred to as COPD or the ‘heaves’). That’s why the choice of a dust-free bedding and the proper management of the stable environment are critical for equine professionals and owners. 

Hoof Supportive

Like its respiratory system, the horse’s hooves are evolved to cope with very different conditions than those found in most stables today. The best bedding must provide firm, resilient support under the hoof, particularly the fog and a moisture-controlled environment that will keep the hoof dry, but won’t dry it out.

Cushioning Hocks and Joints

In a modern stable with solid walls and a concrete floor, a good, deep, aerated bedding should provide a insulation between the horse and the floor, and a protective cushion that will help prevent the kind of common damage such as capped hocks that can so easily occur when a horse is lying down, getting up or rolling in the stable.

Hygienic

Essential stable hygiene is something traditionally dealt with by periodic disinfecting. If not, later at some point of time, bedding may turn into a host for bacteria and fungi that will quickly re-contaminate the stable, especially when wet, generating pathogens that can invade and infect the respiratory system, cuts and grazes on the legs, and cracks or splits in the hoof. So go up with the periodic check for bedding hygiene and the bedding that embraces anti-fungal, anti-allergen naturally.

Space and Time feasible

The compressed blocks mean it’s easy to store and transport and the storage of bedding will be a major issue for people with shorter on land space. Stacked in the racks of the storage room or bed spread in the stable, it’s required to be less space consuming and laying the bed along the stall using a paddock is much easier than thought.

Easy Available

Bedding availability throughout the year and their accessibility in your locality is the foremost necessary that you should take care of. Along with the transport or delivery and shipping feasibility are to be checked.

Biodegradable

The bedding has to be 100% organic, environmentally friendly and reduce the stable waste. If the stable waste were to compost, beddings make the major contribution to the compost piles. On an average, it may take 6 months or so for compost bedding to break-down into muck heap.

Economical

Cost is inevitably a factor in an owner’s choice of bedding, but values are the far more important measure of cost effectiveness. Being environmentally sustainable, easily available, it has to be affordable for all hobbyist and professional owners of the barn, on buying new one that are highly absorbent doesn’t need to use as much. Buying in bulk may save you some money, too.

On the whole, buying an ideal product in terms of superior quality and cost-effective with easy handling and maintenance and with little waste, saving you both time and money is a suggestion we render on part of our team.  

 Hoping you a thoughtful day, be safe and healthy.

CategoriesCoco Coir Bedding Dairy Farm Lifestyle Reptile Bedding Tips & Tricks
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Step by Step guide for Barn bedding

Here we depict a deliberate process on how to make bedding for your pretty horses step by step.

With this in mind, let us make a quick visit to a stall where bedding is made out of the owner’s preference as ground substrate cautionaries for equines.

One will always be spirited when one is making comfort for their beloved ones, if they are energetic, ever cheerful companions like Horses, then one will exhaust all his energy to get it best done. But here is the simplest, tactful and handful advice for all dedicated fellow horse lovers.  

Before we jump into the main topic let’s have a brief talk on maintaining the clean barn, the bedding laid within the clean barn will be more efficient.  Here are some right tools to make the job easier, and stall cleaning an exceptional good. 

  • Apple picker
  • Shavel
  • Broom
  • Absorbent Deodorizer
  • Sprinkle can
  • Muck Bucket or wheelbarrow

For one to be precise, stall cleaning  is much of saving time, money and  energy of caretakers’ , prioritising hygiene at most. Also lessening bedding consume.

Live threats are also resolved when maintaining stall hygiene diligently. 

Simple cleaning process

  • Toss clean, unsoiled bedding against the walls and into back corners.
  • Toss manure and dirty, wet bedding into the center of the stall or directly into a muck bucket or wheelbarrow.
  • Rake out center of the stall.
  • Sweep the center of the stall thoroughly and pick up any remaining dirty material with a shovel.
  • Sprinkle absorbent deodorizer on any wet spots.
  • Leave the empty stall to air dry with bedding pushed back as long as possible until you prepare new bedding. 

Swift and Tactful bedding process

Based on the layout of the stall, the bedding backpacks are brought into the stall. Most often one using rubber mat as rigid grounding of 3.6mm(12’) x 1.8mm(6’) bed size requires 3-5 bags per yard.

  • Put the bag packs in 2 cross lines, and fold the end hinge inboard to avoid further trouble of out flow.
  • Pouring cold water, it may take an hour to absorb for it to fluff all up. Else the warm water will do in 20mins.
  • Invert the bag upside down, break with force and crumble all.
  • Spread out up to the layer 5inches, the volume of spreading on your wish, as horses like fluffy to their feet.

It’s preferred to take inhabitants out for a walk while clean and bedding since it provides them with fresh air and sets one’s mind at peace.

CategoriesDairy Farm Lifestyle Tips & Tricks
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Top 4 Tips to improve Barn Hygiene

When it comes to dealing with the health and comfort of your barn living, you’ll always want to make the best of your job possible. That’s right, regardless of what lives in your barn, it is necessary to keep up with hygienic standards to stay clean and healthy. In fact, if a barn is unkempt, bacteria and viruses can be spread, resulting in sickening your dear animals.

Barns is a shelter provided for livestock such as cattle, horses and many other animals. As a Barn handler or frequent visitors, you are well aware of after effects of detrimental unhygienic culture. Those without proper care and regular tending are more prone to get sick and eventually leading to loss of life. A clean and tidy environment is the key source for robust life. So as to say, here are some of the highly recommended tips for your barners’ well-being.

Clean barn

The first and foremost thing in controlling disease break out is cleaning. Clean means free of dirt and organic matter such as manure. This means the removal of all manure and feed, followed by washing, scrubbing and rinsing, or pressure washing, all surfaces with hot water and detergent. Studies have shown that over 90% of bacteria are removed from surfaces that are thoroughly cleaned first. Thorough cleaning will remove most of the contamination and allow disinfectants to penetrate surfaces and kill microorganisms. This is followed by the use of a disinfectant according to label directions (included in the Compendium of Veterinary Products, available in your veterinarian’s office).

Disinfectant

A disinfectant is a chemical or substance that kills microorganisms and is applied to objects.  Follow the label directions before using, the “Active Ingredients” section on the container of disinfectant will identify the type of product. The product label will often state a dilution rate when being used either as a germicidal cleaner (killing microorganisms) or as a sanitizer (reducing the number of microorganisms). The minimum contact time (mentioned in label) is the time required to kill microorganisms. The kill time (10-15minutes) is affected by the presence of organic matter like bedding blood and pus, temperature, pH, hardness of water and concentration of disinfectant. So be sure of cleaning up before using disinfectants.

             It’s important not to simply focus on disinfecting surfaces in barns and barn areas (walls, doors, paddocks, fences, and gates) to curb disease spread; be sure to address hand tools and other farm equipment, vehicles, and trailers, too. Before you get started, relocate animals from the area you’re about to clean and disinfect. You might also need to remove all bedding. 

Make sure the area where you are working has adequate ventilation and turn off the power supply before soaking walls with water. Many disinfectants can be extremely irritating to human skin, eyes, and respiratory tracts. Always wear protective clothing, eye protection, and gloves when using any disinfectant product.

***Never mix different disinfectants together. Every approved disinfectant in the United States has a safety data sheet, available from the manufacturer and contains valuable information.

Personal Hygiene

The means of preventing the disease to spread by individual self-care is often termed as Personal Hygiene. Possibly barn handlers can be a reservoir or source of the disease agent while moving around from one barn to another; by carrying the agent on their clothing and shoes or animals themselves. The “shower in and shower out” followed in swine and poultry industries shows some pretty results.

In care, handlers should be dedicated with boots and clothing only used for the barn. If that is not possible, boots should be cleaned prior to entering the premises and freshly laundered clothing should be worn. A freshly laundered pair of coveralls would also suffice. Handlers should learn not to wear the same outfit outside anywhere, as there is the potential for them to carry the problem back.

Hand Washing

Hand washing should be facilitated around the barn/farm to encourage the frequent washing of hands. Research has shown that, as the access to a hand-washing facility increased, the hand-washing compliance increased (1). Thorough hand washing with soap is adequate in most cases. Antiseptic soaps (e.g., chlorhexidine) or iodophor shampoo/washes (e.g., Betadine scrub) or alcohol based hand gel may also be used and should be located at the sink in an easy dispensing container.

         Dispensers can be preferably attached to handlers’ belts or outside the doorway for easy access and frequent use before working for another barn, as they only require 15 seconds to dry. Hand washing is also important to prevent chemical contamination of the workplace when feeding medicines.

* Choose a product that doesn’t dry out the skin or cause skin irritation.In this stressful pandemic situation caused by Coronavirus, it’s always better to have knowledge at your tips to make the lives around much safer and healthier. It’s always that prevention is better than cure, take in interest towards a healthy living and strive through it.

CategoriesCoco Coir Bedding Reptile Bedding Tips & Tricks
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User Guide for Coco Coir Bedding

Completely natural, nontoxic and a cost effective product that can improve your pets’ habitant is Coir bedding. Coco coir reptile bedding offers a number of benefits to both reptiles and their owners. They are present in 2 major categories of coco bedding in the market right now, one is fine blend and other is course blend. Fine blends are compressed coco peat packed up for small reptiles like bearded dragons, guinea pigs, turtles, tortoises, iguanas, scorpions, hermit crabs and also used by worm breeders. Course blends are the coco husk chips for adult reptiles like snakes and a vast variety of lizards.

         They are sold either loose or in a lightweight, compressed block, they can either be used directly as dry substrate or hydrated for better use. 

Small Reptiles

Reptiles are more or less a species that tend to be in its own comforts, that’s via placing them in terrariums. Coir provides them with cushion land-fills by entertaining the pets that digs and can be used to change landscaping inside the terrarium. They are more safe, comfortable spots for nesting and borrowing. Once used in your terrarium, it gives off a pleasant, clean and clear look, and their absorbance can help to reduce odor inside.

 To hydrate it for use with your reptile, simply put coir in a clean container and add a gallon of fresh water. Allow the coir to soak in water for an hour so it can expand fully. Next, mix the coir by hand, spreading the moisture evenly and breaking apart any remaining clumps. You might also want to wring out excess water. 

Spread coir in the desired area of the tank or terrarium with a thickness of at least 1-2 inches. You’ll need approximately 1.5 pounds of coir block to spread it at the recommended thickness across the bottom of a 40-gallon tank.

When using coir with reptiles that prefer less humid climates, the dry blocks can be very difficult to break apart. Moisten the coir brick just enough to break it. Then lay the coir out to dry thoroughly before using it in your pet’s terrarium.

Store any coir you’re not using immediately for later use. Store extra coco coir reptile bedding in a sealed container to keep it fresh and prevent unwanted species to spoil them out.

Adult Reptiles

Preferentially as for adult reptile breeders’ choice, coco husk chip provides humid temperature and a husky-comfy feeling for reptiles. Because coco coir absorbs and retains water so efficiently, adding moist coco coir to the reptile’s habitat helps maintain proper humidity naturally. This is paramount for species that live in tropical climates. Since the key is to maintain health and longevity, putting much eco-friendly bedding for your reptiles’ world is the best option.    

Take a clean tub, fill in with a fresh water lesser than that of recommended in product instruction. To make the process much faster, prefer using lukewarm water for dipping. Sink the whole bedding block or as much as you wish into water. Press along the sides of the block for optimal soaking, leave it for some time. As time lapse, it eventually gets expanded.

After totally submerging on one side, flip it over for thorough soaking. Don’t over soak it, as the block may fall apart causing hassle for the handler to skim it. Also in the middle of a few inches, there remain little patches of un-soaked that you may have to dip them once more. Soaking each side requires a maximum of 3-4 minutes later put the block back in the container and let it be there for a few more minutes to expand completely. Start splitting from the corner of the block as they will be more futile than core. And let it dry for a while since it holds up an incredible amount of moisture that may lead to potential mold formation.  

Once the crumbs of chip husks are ready, start preparing to lay a new bedding. First, scoop out the previously laid mattress and clean with a vacuum cleaner. Once all clean, disinfect the entire enclosure with veterinary disinfectant such as F10 SC. In the proportion of 1:500 mix 10ml of it with water into a squirt bottle and spray along all the corners and entire space.

         Now lay down the bedding evenly over the space. Husk fills pretty deep into the tray, looking really good, handful, won’t get depleted easily. Even if bedding gets dirtier at some point, it can be taken out while the remaining maintain the same volume. Place a non-spill bowl away from the hotspot; where your pet moves around more often.

Changing of bedding is left to user convenience probably once per month, they can even recur the cost of bedding by reselling the manured mattress to compost manufacturers. This way users are ensured of win-win situations, without much of a loss. Knowing the more acceptable way of bedding rather than simply laying them down randomly is the most efficient way of improving oneself, and that’s what all seek for. Hope you all enjoyed reading it and make the best out of it from now on.